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Bread Crumbs

From Season 2: Chicken Cutlets 101

Overview:

When a recipe calls for bread crumbs, you have more choices than you might think. Besides supermarket bread crumbs (both plain and Italian-seasoned), there is the option of homemade bread crumbs, made from grinding bread in the food processor. And should you use those fresh crumbs as is or toast them first in the oven? Finally, many chefs rave about panko, large, flaky Japanese-style crumbs, now available in many supermarkets as well as gourmet stores.

Bread crumbs have three basic uses in the kitchen: coating, binding, and topping. To find out which crumb was best suited to each culinary task, we prepared batches of breaded chicken cutlets, meat loaf, and buttery crumb-topped macaroni and cheese, using each type of bread crumb and holding a blind tasting to see what tasters preferred.

Tasters overwhelmingly preferred the fresh toasted bread crumbs in every application, praising their crisp texture and toasty flavor. (Of the different kinds of white bread used to make the fresh bread crumbs—including premium sliced sandwich bread, Italian, French, and country style—the sliced bread was the sweetest, and therefore, the favorite.) Supermarket crumbs were similarly panned in every application for their gritty, sandy texture. Fresh (untoasted) crumbs and panko were suitable for some tasks but not others.

Fresh Toasted

Our favorite crumb gave macaroni and cheese a “nice and crunchy” topping and yielded breaded chicken cutlets with “great crunch” and “nice flavor.”

Fresh (Untoasted)

These crumbs were too soft for coating chicken cutlets but were good as a binder in meat loaf. Once buttered and broiled on top of macaroni and cheese, fresh crumbs were praised for being “very crunchy,” with “good flavor.”

Panko

These large, flaky crumbs are perfect when you want big crunch. Tasters touted their “crispy” texture on chicken cutlets but dismissed the meatloaf as “pasty” and “gummy.”

Plain Packaged

Consistently described as “stale” and “sandy,” these store-bought crumbs provided a passable crust on chicken cutlets, but tasters rejected their “gritty” texture in meat loaf and on macaroni and cheese.

Italian Packaged

As bad as the plain crumbs were, the crumbs with Italian seasonings were even worse. The “artificial,” “bad oregano flavor” was overwhelming.

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Product Tested Price*
Highly Recommended
Columela Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Columela Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Our favorite premium extra-virgin olive oil from a previous tasting, Columela is composed of a blend of intense Picual, mild Hojiblanca, Ocal, and Arbequina olives. This oil took top honors for its fruity flavor and excellent balance. Tasters praised its big olive aroma, big olive taste with a buttery flavor that is sweet and full, with a peppery finish. One taster said: Its very green and freshlike a squeezed olive. Another simply wrote: Fantastic.

$19 for 17 oz
Recommended
Lucini Italia Premium Select Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Lucini Italia Premium Select Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Tasters noted this oils flavor was much deeper than the other samples, describing it as fruity, with a slight peppery finish, buttery undertones, and a clean, green taste that was aromatic, with a good balance. It has the flavor that some good EVOOs have, said one admiring taster.

$19.99 for 500 ml ($39.98 per liter)
Colavita Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Colavita Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Virtually tied for second place, this oil was deemed round and buttery, with a light body and flavor that was briny and fruity, very fine and smooth, and almost herbal, with great balance. Good olive flavor. I could smell it and taste it, approved one taster. In a word, pleasant.

$17.99 for 750 ml ($23.98 per liter)
Recommended with Reservations
Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil

A clear step down from the top oils, tasters noted overall mild flavor and very little aroma, with only a hint of green olive and a hint of spiciness at the end. In pasta, it was initially not complex, but gradually bloomed in your mouth. Overall, it was worthy of a second bite.

$12.49 for 750 ml ($16.65 per liter)
Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive Oil

While some tasters found this oil sweet and buttery with medium body and slight spice at the end, others complained that it had zero olive flavor and was so floral its almost like eating perfume; still others noted a bitter aftertaste. In pasta, it was extremely mild to the point of being boring.

$10.99 for 750 ml ($14.65 per liter)
Goya Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Goya Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Comments: The best comments tasters could muster were mild and neutral. Some liked it on pasta (though one called it Snoozeville), but complaints were myriad: metallic, soapy, briny, hints of dirt. Carped one taster, I cant imagine what is in here, but they have a nerve calling it EVOO.

$13.99 for 1 liter
Pompeian Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Pompeian Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Comments: While some tasters called this oil mild and smooth, others found it thin, greasy and not very interesting. I bet the cooking water had more olive flavor, speculated one taster; could be canolait is so bland, mused another. A few noted an objectionable aftertaste that was soapy, chemical or mentholthink

$9.99 for 473 ml ($21.12 per liter)
Botticelli Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Botticelli Extra Virgin Olive Oil

While a few tasters liked this potent oil, others said they detected mushroom, rotten walnuts, a Band-Aid wrapped in a cherry blossom, and a quality that was downright medicinalTriaminic, anyone? Several deemed it overpowering and musky, with a rank, off-flavor. Tastes not like olives but like the armpits of olive laborers, shuddered one.

$10.99 for 1 liter
Not Recommended
Carapelli Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Carapelli Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Italy, Greece, Spain, Tunisia, Turkey, Cyprus, Morocco, and Syria Comments: Nothing remarkable herejust greasy, no flavor, summarized one taster. Where did the olive go? said another. This oil was judged to have a kind of rancid aftertaste that was reminiscent of not only soil, tree resin, and ammonia and grass, but even kitty litter smells and a set of sweaty hockey pads.

$10.99 for 750 ml ($14.65 per liter)
DaVinci Extra Virgin Olive Oil
DaVinci Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Although this oil won top place in a previous tasting, because olive oil is an agricultural product, it can differ from year to year. This time, tasters found it washed out and muted, if nice, in a totally bland and unremarkable way. Tasted plain, objections ranged from insipid, with no real complexity to tastes like EVOO mixed with vegetable oil.

$17.99 for 1 liter
Star Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Star Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Origin: Spain, Italy, Greece, and Tunisia Comments: Boring and not very complex, this oil came across as plastic-y and industrial; some hint of olives, but it fades quickly. Tasters identified off-flavors that were unpleasant, dirty, like rubber and metal, with a sour aftertaste, or at least a bit funky, with a strange taste that was spicy, but in a motor oil kind of way. One simply wrote, Blech.

$11.99 for 750 ml ($15.99 per liter)
*Prices subject to change