Dutch ovens are some of the hardest working equipment in the test kitchen; in fact, we call for them so often in our recipes that we stock dozens of them. But most home kitchens only have room for one. In that case, which size should you buy? Cook’s Illustrated deputy editor Becky Hays and editor in chief Dan Souza are here to weigh in. (And if you’re not on the Dutch oven train yet, here’s why you should own one.)