By Published Sept. 18, 2023.
This is Technique #44 from our 100 Techniques Every Home Cook Can Master.
Each technique is broken into three sections: why it works, key steps, and recipes that use it. Learn these recipe building blocks and you'll be set up for a lifetime of cooking success.
Aquawhatta? Aquafaba is the liquid that comes in a can of chickpeas—and it’s aqua-fabulous. This starchy liquid binds and whips just like eggs, giving baked items structure and a fluffy, lofty crumb. It's one of our secrets for vegan baked goods so superlative you’d never know they are egg-free.
You can use it to make everything from rich chocolate cupcakes to breakfast-worthy blueberry muffins to delicate dessert meringues.
But it’s not just for baked goods: This starchy stuff is a great binder used straight from the can, bringing rich body and thicker texture to items as diverse as pasta dishes, vegan mayonnaise, and even cocktails.
Here's how to get the most out of that liquid gold.
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It's important to shake the unopened can of chickpeas well. The starches in the liquid settle in the can, so to take full advantage, you need them evenly distributed throughout the liquid. Drain the beans through a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and reserve for another use. Whisk the liquid, and then measure.
If you're baking with aquafaba, you'll need a stabilizing ingredient to whip it properly. When we're whipping eggs, we often turn to cream of tartar. Happily, we found that cream of tartar works equally well with aquafaba.
The proteins in aquafaba denature when combined with cream of tartar, so they're able to trap air bubbles to create a stable, stiff, and fluffy foam. The starches in aquafaba help reinforce this structure.
And because aquafaba contains some naturally occurring sugar, it's hygroscopic, which limits the foam's tendency to weep liquid and collapse.
In testing, we had good results with chickpea liquid from every can of chickpeas we tried (organic brands and those with preservatives, salted and no-salt-added brands) except for Progresso, which didn't consistently whip up to a foam.
We also couldn’t create a decent foam with the liquid from dried chickpeas cooked at home. And other types of beans don’t work well (yes, we tested them).
We also learned that frozen-then-thawed aquafaba whips just as successfully as fresh, so you can freeze the liquid in 1-tablespoon portions in ice cube trays. Once the bean liquid cubes are frozen solid, pop them into a freezer bag for future use.
To speed things along, you can also thaw the aquafaba in the microwave (don't cook it, though). Aquafaba will keep in the refrigerator for 1 week
Now that you know the science behind the technique, follow these steps to achieve whipped egg whites that are perfect for baked goods.
Shake can of chickpeas to distribute starches. Drain chickpeas through fine-mesh strainer set over bowl; reserve chickpeas for another use.
Whisk aquafaba liquid, then measure according to recipe.
Using stand mixer fitted with whisk or handheld electric mixer, whip aquafaba with cream of tartar on high speed until stiff foam that clings to whisk forms.
For chocolate cupcakes, using rubber spatula, stir one-third of whipped aquafaba into batter to lighten batter.
Ready to put your newfound knowledge of aquafaba to use? Try it with these recipes.
Ready to learn another technique? Choose from our list of 100 Techniques Every Home Cook Can Master.
