100 Techniques

Technique #78: Make Filled Pasta Like an Italian Nonna

With a forgiving dough and an updated method, ravioli and the like are now anything but intimidating.
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Published Aug. 15, 2023.

This is Technique #78 from our 100 Techniques Every Home Cook Can Master.

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Pasta machines have become common enough that it’s understandable to think that’s the “classic” way to make ravioli and other filled pasta.

But you don’t need a machine: The truly traditional method uses only a rolling pin and a knife. And with our updated techniques for making the dough and shaping and cooking the pasta, supple, pillowy ravioli are within anyone’s reach.

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Start With a Rollable Dough

We created our fresh pasta recipe especially to be rolled out thin without a machine (and without having to use major elbow grease, a common problem with other from-scratch pasta doughs). It relies on egg yolks and oil to provide enough fat to limit gluten development so the dough can be rolled without springing back. 

Since it’s a winner when cut into strands, boiled, and tossed with a homemade sauce, we decided to take it a step further and use it for ravioli.

A Simpler Method

Along with our new take on handmade pasta, we also updated the ravioli-making method. Working with one long rolled-out sheet at a time, brush the lower half with egg white to help seal the ravioli. Instead of the usual awkward procedure of folding the entire long length of dough over the evenly spaced mounds of filling and then cutting, cut the sheet into individual rectangles and fold them individually. 

This makes it much easier to correctly fold and seal each piece of ravioli, suspending the top portion of dough with your thumbs and enclosing each filling mound in dough while pressing out air. (Trapped air will create pockets of steam during cooking that could cause the wrapper to burst.)

Cook Longer Than You Think

Homemade filled pasta can often be underdone and doughy, especially at the edges where the dough is doubled. Most recipes call for rolling the dough super-thin to compensate, but that’s incredibly difficult without the help of pasta machine rollers.

We discovered that you can just let the boiling water do the work. Cooking our ravioli until the dough is supple yet resilient takes about 13 minutes, more than twice as long as ravioli made using a pasta maker. But the results will make any grandmother proud.

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Step By Step: How to Make Filled Pasta

Follow these simple steps and you'll soon wow your guests with tender ravioli that won't explode in your boiling pot of water.

Step 1: Roll, Trim, and Brush

Lay 1 rolled pasta sheet on counter with long side parallel to edge. Using sharp knife, trim and square off corners and brush bottom half with egg white.

Step 2: Add Your Filling

Starting 11⁄2 inches from left edge of dough and 1 inch from bottom, evenly space 1-tablespoon mounds of filling to fit 6 mounds. Cut sheet at center points between filling mounds.

Step 3: Lift Over and Press Together

Lift top edge of dough over filling to line up with bottom edge. Holding top edge suspended with your thumbs, press layers together with your fingers.

Step 4: Press Out Air Bubbles

Working around filling from back to front, press out air before sealing closed.

Step 5: Trim Ravioli

Using sharp knife or fluted pastry wheel, cut away excess dough, leaving 1⁄4- to 1⁄2-inch border around each mound. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet.

Step 6: Boil and Test As Needed

Boil ravioli until just tender. To test, pull one from pot, trim off corner without cutting into filling, and taste.

Watch Cook’s Illustrated’s Dan Souza demonstrate how to make Meat Ravioli with Quick Tomato Sauce.

Recipes That Use This Technique

Ready to put your newfound knowledge of filled pastas to use? Try it with these recipes.

Recipe

Three-Cheese Ravioli with Browned Butter-Pine Nut Sauce

With our supermalleable dough, you don't need a pasta machine—or the skills of an Italian grandmother—to make tender yet springy ravioli.
Get the Recipe
Recipe

Meat Ravioli with Quick Tomato Sauce

With our supermalleable dough, you don't need a pasta machine—or the skills of an Italian grandmother—to make tender yet springy ravioli. 
Get the Recipe
Recipe

Agnolotti

Agnolotti are rich, pillow-shaped filled pasta, which are stuffed with a comforting, meltingly tender braised Piemontese meat filling and simply tossed in browned butter.
Get the Recipe
Recipe

Artichoke-Lemon Ravioli with Browned Butter-Pine Nut Sauce

With our supermalleable dough, you don't need a pasta machine—or the skills of an Italian grandmother—to make tender yet springy ravioli. 
Get the Recipe
Recipe

Squash-Filled Pasta

The artful cappellacci (“big hats”) are another of the glorious filled pastas of Emilia–Romagna. They're similar in shape to jumbo tortellini, but they sport a pointed top.
Get the Recipe

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