On the Road

On the Road: A Mighty Muffin

These muffins are a staple at this Rhode Island bakery.

Published Oct. 28, 2020.

Central Bakery in Tiverton, Rhode Island, makes only one thing: bolos lêvedos. But brothers Paul and David Lopes believe this laser focus is the key to their 30-plus years of success.

Bolos lêvedos, at first glance, look a lot like English muffins. But these Portuguese treats ("bolos" means "cakes," and "lêvedos" means "yeast"), originally from the Azores, are denser, sweeter, and richer than English muffins, thanks to whole milk, eggs, and butter. To get their classic look, they are cooked on two sides on a dry griddle or skillet. They're often eaten for breakfast, but they can also be used as burger buns or sandwich bread.

“My mom and dad came to the United States and realized no one was making the muffins. In 1974, they started making them in their garage, then opened up their first bakery,” Paul says. The muffins were based on the recipe Lopes's grandmother used back on São Miguel, an island in the Azores.

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Co-owners Paul Lopes, right, and David Lopes, photographed in the office at Central Bakery
Co-owners Paul Lopes, right, and David Lopes, second-generation operators of Central Bakery, based their recipe for bolos lêvedos (also called Portuguese muffins) on a family recipe brought from the Azores.

Business took off, thanks to word of mouth. “One of my dad's first big hits was on Cape Cod [in the late 1970s],” Paul says. Vacationing New Yorkers brought word of the muffins back to the city, starting a sales boom.

Paul credits the company's evolution to his customers. “In Portugal, the only thing they used the muffins for was breakfast. But the American public got really creative,” Paul says. “Now, the number one use for this product is a hamburger bun.” Central Bakery, an exclusively wholesale operation today, supplies Madison Square Garden and Yankee Stadium, among others.

Leonor Lopes, mother of owners David and Paul Lopes, photographed in the office at Central Bakery
Leonor Lopes, mother of owners David and Paul Lopes, photographed in the office at Central Bakery.

Sticking to a single product confounds some customers. “I'll talk to a retailer and he'll say, ‘What else do you have?’ and I'll say, ‘This is it,’ and he'll say, ‘You make just one product since 1974?’ But it's keeping our doors open.”

That extreme focus extends to the recipe and process, too. The brothers keep the specifics top secret. “We've tried to adapt, but it's not the same.”


Bolos Lêvedos (Portuguese Muffins)

Once you have these Portuguese breakfast treats around the house, you’ll find dozens of ways to enjoy them.
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