Why This Recipe Works
The classic triple-chocolate cookie combines unsweetened, bittersweet, and semisweet chocolates. Balance is key in these soft and chewy cookies. They should be packed with serious chocolate flavor, but shouldn’t be a case of death by chocolate.
The unsweetened chocolate adds intense, earthy chocolate flavor; the bittersweet chocolate adds a sophisticated, rich chocolate flavor; and the semisweet balances the two more bitter chocolates. With more than a pound of chocolate in the recipe, the methods we typically use for cookies and brownies produced cookies that were too wet and didn’t hold their shape. We got the best results by beating the eggs and sugar together until fluffy, then adding the melted chocolate and mixing in the dry ingredients last. Beating the eggs and sugar for a few minutes gave the batter more structure and resulted in cookies with a pleasantly crisp, meringue-like shell.
Premium bittersweet bar chocolates were too rich (and too greasy) for this recipe. Melted bittersweet chocolate chips, which contain less fat than chocolate bars, worked much better. They improved the batter by making it less fluid, yet also added the same grown-up, not-too-sweet flavor as more expensive bar chocolates. We also added a little coffee powder and vanilla to bolster the chocolate flavor. The cookies retain their fudgy texture when cooled directly on the baking sheet, rather than on a baking rack.