Fresh Cod Brandade
Why This Recipe Works
Brandade recipes largely proceed in a similar fashion: the soaked salt cod is cooked in milk or cream and flavorings, then whipped with potatoes that have been cooked separately. Looking to master the method first, we found classic approaches a bit fussy—why not cook everything in just one pot? We experimented a bit with a quicker brandade recipe and eventually found that we could poach the fish in the milk, then carefully remove it and cook the potatoes (Yukon Golds, cut into small pieces) in the now–highly flavored milk. The fish cooked through in just three minutes or so; the potatoes took about 15 minutes before they were done.