Appears in Cook's Illustrated March/April 2015, America's Test Kitchen TV
Cake surrounding creamy fruit mousse promises the best of old-world elegance. But it doesn’t matter how gorgeous it looks if the filling is rubbery and the cake is tough.
The classic Charlotte Russe, a grand dessert consisting of a Bavarian cream encased in sponge cake, has fallen out of favor, partly because it’s fussy to make, and partly because lean sponge cake and bouncy gelatinized mousse don’t hold muc...