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Swiss Cheese

We scoured supermarket cases, the deli counter, and specialty cheese shops for Swiss that would shine on a cheese plate, not just melt on a sandwich.

What We Learned

A pockmarked wedge of Swiss may be instantly recognizable as the icon of “cheese,” but it’s rarely celebrated for its flavor. Often rubbery and bland, most Swiss—stateside, at least—may be fine as a gooey layer in a Reuben but would never star on a cheese plate. In fact, there was only one sample that we enjoyed eating out of hand the last time we tasted Swiss cheese, in 200...