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Tortilla Chips

From White Chicken Chili Supper

How we tested

Salsa is now America’s best-selling condiment, so it’s not surprising that tortilla chips are poised to soon overtake potato chips as America’s favorite salty snack. According to data from IRi, a Chicago-based market research firm, tortilla chip sales grew at nearly double the rate of potato chip sales in 2014.

Tortilla chips are traditionally made from yellow or white corn, but we’ve noticed an increase in products made with blue corn. We reached out to manufacturers and learned that—for some smaller, health-focused brands—these blue corn products are just as popular as traditional white or yellow corn chips. We gathered seven nationally available tortilla chip products: three made from blue corn and four made from white or yellow corn (if a company made multiple products, we selected its most popular variety). Twenty-one America’s Test Kitchen staffers sampled the chips plain and—to see how well they could scoop—with salsa and guacamole.

To our surprise, blue corn chips universally sank to the bottom of the pack. Many tasters detected “slightly bitter,” “burnt,” or “beany” notes in blue corn chips that stood in stark contrast to the “sweet,” “mild” flavor of white and yellow corn chips. How did these pretty chips end up at the bottom of our rankings? Blue corn gets its vibrant hue from large concentrations of pigment-producing chemicals called anthocyanins in its kernels; the same chemicals responsible for the bright color of eggplants, blackberries, and grapes. In addition to a blue hue, anthocyanins can contribute a slightly bitter, astringent flavor to foods, particularly when they’re cooked.

Blue chips were also universally lacking in salt, with most having between 60 and 80 milligrams of sodium per serving, compared with 110 to 115 milligrams of sodium in higher-ranked products. Chips with less than 110 milligrams (including one white corn product) were “bland” and “overly sweet.” Tasters thought that saltier chips were more “authentic,” “fresh,” and “bright.” We tried salting one of the blue corn chip products to see if it would improve the flavor, but it wasn’t enough to mask the beany aftertaste.

Testers dipped the chips in our winning medium chunky salsa and our Hearty Guacamole to evaluate how well each held its shape. While most chips maintained their structure, a few products turned soggy under salsa or crumbled on a drag through guacamole. Tasters preferred thick chips with curved or curled edges that could trap dips. A thicker chip didn’t necessarily mean a denser chip, though. We favored chips with large air pockets, which added structural support while still maintaining a crispy, flaky texture that wasn’t too dense or stiff.

Our new favorite chips were reformulated right before our tasting, and while the manufacturer wouldn’t disclose exactly what it changed, it’s certainly doing something right. These chips were light, flaky, and crispy, with a bright corn taste.

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The Results

Winner
Recommended

Skippy Peanut Butter

In a contest that hinged on texture, tasters thought this "smooth, "creamy" sample was "swell" and gave it top honors, both plain and baked into cookies. Its rave reviews even compensated for a slightly "weak" nut flavor that didn't come through as well as that of other brands in the pungent satay sauce.

$2.39 for 16.3-oz. jar (15 cents per oz.)*
Recommended

Jif Natural Peanut Butter Spread

The big favorite in satay sauce, this peanut butter's "dark, roasted flavor"—helped by the addition of molasses—stood out particularly well against the other heady ingredients, and it made cookies with "nice sweet-salty balance." Plus, as the top-rated palm oil-based sample, it was "creamy," "thick," and better emulsified than other "natural" contenders.

$2.29 for 18-oz. jar (13 cents per oz.)*

Reese's Peanut Butter

This is what peanut butter should be like, " declared one happy taster, noting specifically this product's "good," "thick" texture and "powerful peanut flavor." In satay sauce, however, some tasters felt that heavier body made for a "pasty" end result.

$2.59 for 18-oz. jar (14 cents per oz.)*

Skippy Natural Peanut Butter Spread

The only other palm oil-based peanut butter to make the "recommended" cut, this contender had a "looser" texture than its winning sibling but still won fans for being "super-smooth." Tasters thought it made an especially "well-balanced," "complex" peanut sauce.

$2.39 for 15-oz. jar (16 cents per oz.)*
Recommended with Reservations

Peanut Butter & Co. No-Stir Natural Smooth Operator

Though it says "no-stir" on the label, this "stiff" palm-oil enriched peanut butter was "weeping oil" and came across as "greasy" to some tasters. However, it turned out a respectable batch of cookies—"chewy in the center, crisp and short at the edge"—and made "perfectly good" satay sauce.

$4.49 for 18-oz. jar (25 cents per oz.)*

Maranatha Organic No Stir Peanut Butter

On the one hand, this organic peanut butter produced cookies that were "soft and sturdy" yet "moist," with "knockout peanut flavor." On the other hand, eating it straight from the jar was nearly impossible; its "loose," "liquid-y," and "dribbly" consistency had one taster wonder if it was "peanut soup."

$5.69 for 16-oz. jar (36 cents per oz.)*
Not Recommended

Smart Balance All Natural Rich Roast Peanut Butter

Besides being unpalatably "tacky" and "sludgy," this "natural" peanut butter suffered from an awful "fishy" flavor with a "weird acidic aftertaste" that tasters noted in all three applications. Our best guess as to the culprit? The inclusion of flax seed oil, an unsaturated fat that's highly susceptible to rancidity.

$3.59 for 16-oz. jar (22 cents per oz.)*

Smucker's Natural Peanut Butter

With its only additive a negligible amount of salt, the only truly natural peanut butter in the lineup elicited comments ranging from mild dissatisfaction ("needs enhancement with salt and sugar") to outright disgust ("slithery," "chalky," "inedible"). Cookies were "dry and crumbly" with a "hockey puck" texture, and the satay sauce was "stiff," "gritty," and "gloopy."

$2.69 for 16-oz. jar (17 cents per oz.)*