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The Best Vegan Mayonnaise
Vegan mayo can’t be very good, can it? Read on for a shocking surprise.
What You Need To Know
Sandwich slather. Salad binder. Bread-crumb adhesive. Dip base. These are just a few of the many uses for mayonnaise. Traditional mayonnaise is an emulsion of oil, acid (lemon juice or vinegar), and egg yolk. The yolk, apart from imparting flavor and richness, contains lecithins that stabilize the emulsion; that is, they help the oil and acid combine. But recently a number of egg-free substitutes have hit the market—America’s largest convenience chain, 7-Eleven, even replaced regular mayonnaise with vegan mayo in its prepared foods. (The U.S. Food and Drug Administration requires products branded as “mayonnaise” or “mayo” to contain egg, so the egg-free products are technically called dressings or spreads.) But are these vegan mayos any good? They can’t possibly compete with real, egg-based mayonnaise . . . can they?
To find out, we purchased six widely available vegan mayonnaises and gathered 21 editors and test cooks to sample them in a series of blind taste tests. Every taster tried each mayo plain, in tomato sandwiches, and in our All-American Potato Salad.
Differences were apparent immediately, as tasters easily sorted the mayos into three products they liked (albeit two with reservations) and three they very much did not. Among the lower-scoring options, one was glaringly white, looking more like school glue than mayo. Others were gummy, greasy, and/or gelatinous, and a few smelled and tasted—there’s no other way to say it—awful. But on the positive side, one product rose to the top of our rankings and was universally praised for its clean flavor and smooth, nongreasy texture.
Why were these mayos so different? The differences in texture, flavor, and aroma can be attributed to two components: the emulsifier and the oil. Traditional mayonnaise consists of oil droplets dispersed in a small amount of acid (lemon juice or vinegar), thanks to the emulsifying power of egg yolk. The six vegan mayos we tasted substituted pea protein, soy protein, or modified food starch for the yolk. Pea protein (from the very same plant that gives us green peas) and soy protein both have emulsifying powers comparable to those of egg yolks. But the two mayos at the top of our ratings—both of which were praised for their homogeneous, nongreasy texture—use pea protein. Why is pea protein better?
Under acidic conditions, as in mayonnaise, pea protein dissolves better than soy protein, allowing it to mix better with other ingredients. Because it combines more fully, pea protein produces a superior emulsion. We saw this reflected in our results: The products that used pea protein were creamy and spreadable; the rest used soy protein and were at lea...
Everything We Tested
Tasters proclaimed that they “wouldn’t know this was vegan” and happily stated that it was “exactly what I expect from mayo.” This mayonnaise was praised for its “tangy” taste and “smooth,” “supercreamy” texture. And we liked it just as much as Hellmann’s Real Mayonnaise when tasted side by side!
Recommended with reservations
The runner-up received mixed reviews. Some praised the “smooth” and “creamy” texture. Others felt it was too “soft,” “foamy,” or even a bit “greasy.” And while some tasters enjoyed its “big acidic tang,” others thought the acid was too intense, finding it “mostly vinegar” or tasting of “too much lemon juice.”
While tasters found this mayo’s flavor acceptable, it failed to inspire acclaim. The flavor was “decent,” with many calling it “inoffensive” but a “little bland.” This product came across as inconsistently blended, with some tasters praising its “creamy” texture while others found it excessively “oily” or “slightly gritty.”
Tasters found Hellmann’s vegan offering thoroughly unimpressive, with a “ghastly white” hue that looked “like Crisco,” a “salty” and “aggressively acidic” flavor, and a “runny,” “oily” texture. Even in potato salad, where the blend of ingredients helped mask the mayo’s flavor, its strangely “shiny” appearance and “loose” texture were hard to ignore.
Tasters thought this “fishy” mayo tasted “like anchovies” and had a “tuna fish and cardboard aftertaste.” The texture was described as “slimy” and “gluey,” and one taster proclaimed that it was “like Elmer’s meets Miracle Whip that’s past its expiration date.”
From “rancid” and “curdled” to “sour” and “revolting,” the flavor of this vegan mayo elicited nothing less than unanimous revulsion. Tasters were also not fans of the “gelatinous,” “gloppy,” and “slimy” texture that one panelist likened to “camel snot.”
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The mission of America’s Test Kitchen Reviews is to find the best equipment and ingredients for the home cook through rigorous, hands-on testing.