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We tasted eight cheeses, from authentic Fontina Val d'Aosta to the many versions available in supermarkets. We made some surprising discoveries.

What We Learned

In the cheese world, fontina is a challenge to clearly define. Depending on where and how it is made, it can vary in intensity, from mildly milky to earthy or mushroomy, often with a pleasant sweetness that enhances other ingredients. Some are described as being nutty or sharp. It has a reputation for melting well and is the perfect addition to lasagna, pizza, stuffed chicken breast...

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