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Tenderizers

For ultra-thin cutlets, meat tenderizers actually work. In this case, does brand matter?

Published May 1, 2006.

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What You Need To Know

The use of plants to tenderize meat dates back hundreds of years to the native peoples of what is now Mexico, who wrapped meat in papaya leaves. Both papaya and pineapple contain enzymes that break down collagen—the connective tissue that makes meat tough. These enzymes, papain (from papaya) and bromelain (from pineapple), are the active ingredients in bottles of meat tenderizer. We've dismissed these products in the past because they effectively tenderize only the outermost layer of a piece of meat—not much of an improvement for a thick, tough steak. But our ultra-thin veal cutlets were just the right thickness for the bottled tenderizer to penetrate completely.

To see if brand mattered, we gathered six tenderizers ("seasoned" and unseasoned varieties from three brands) and headed to the kitchen with several pounds of tough veal cutlets. Two brands contain papain, while one relies on bromelain to do the work. All of them worked equally well—neither the brand nor the type of enzyme made any difference. Should you opt for seasoned or unseasoned? While the extra spices aren't enough to ruin dinner, we'd just as soon do the seasoning ourselves.

Everything We Tested

*All products reviewed by America’s Test Kitchen are independently chosen, researched, and reviewed by our editors. We buy products for testing at retail locations and do not accept unsolicited samples for testing. We list suggested sources for recommended products as a convenience to our readers but do not endorse specific retailers. When you choose to purchase our editorial recommendations from the links we provide, we may earn an affiliate commission. Prices are subject to change.

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