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Terms like "mild," "full," and "robust" are meaningless when it comes to molasses. The only surefire way to know what we were getting was to taste them.

What We Learned

Molasses is made by boiling the juice of sugarcane or sugar beets and then extracting sugar crystals through centrifuge. More stages of boiling (and extraction) may follow to produce an increasingly intense flavor. A first boil typically corresponds to mild or “Barbados” molasses; a second boil produces a style sometimes called “full”; and a third creates blackstrap, the most assert...

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