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Why do some goat cheeses boast creamy texture and a bright and lemony taste, while others are chalky, gamy, or—worse—utterly flavorless?
What We Learned
In 1981, Alice Waters topped a simple green salad with a round of baked goat cheese at her Berkeley restaurant, Chez Panisse. The tangy creaminess of this supple cheese was a revelation to most Americans. For centuries, France was the primary producer of goat cheese—chèvre in French means goat—and at that point, it was scarcely produced (or even found) domestically. In fact, Waters’...